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Backstage Paris Fashion Week SS17

The coolest picks of fashion houses from Paris Fashion Week.

Kym Ellery delivered another collection packed with her special version of pared-down, sliced-up fashion. The emphasis this season was on the ankles, as she cut super slashed bell-bottom trousers and long skirts with wonderful ruffles. 

 

Giambattista Valli had his society swans in raptures yet again as the Roman-born Paris-based designer delivered another collection in honour of high-end off-duty pleasures.  His fil rouge this season was a delicate floral print that he wound around goddess gowns as well as on short and sassy skirts and boxy tops. 

 

Memories of the Miami South Beach surfer scene, a journey through India and the work of multimedia artist Isa Genzken were the starting point for Esteban Cortazar’s collection. Draped satin, graphic lines, silver sequins and washed denim came together effortlessly in a collection.

 

Mugler: Designer David Koma took his audience into a sensual sculptural underwater world. Liquid-like silks and sequins showed slashes of skin while athletic looks had coral colours shining through the monochrome outer layers. 

 

Spring Sumer 2017 Vivienne Westwood showed a mediterranean inspired eclectic collection of asymmetric, draped garments, powerful suits and metallic bodysuits. All with a hint of Westwood punk. 

 

Tie me up, tie me down! Yohji Yamamoto – our most favorite Japanese designer – has a great favor in minimalism as his standard palette of deep dark black and twisted it up, off and around the body, using just the occasional pop of white and drip of blood red to accentuate his point. 

 

Jun Takahashi pulled Undercover out more than just one jazz note for his musically inflected spring collection. A part from the instruments that were literally patched over leather pants and bomber jackets, Takahashi borrowed the poor boy hats and slouchy silhouettes from the 1920s to create his own brand of fashion haberdashery.

 

Olivier Rousteing decided to spruce up the glamour for SS17 Balmain runway show at Hôtel Potocki. He arranged tropical banana plants and lianes all along the chandeliers, and opened with khaki looks that were distinctly safari. 

 

Pleated, Grecian style dresses of Vionnet are novel ideas such as the combination of jean bermuda shorts with a flowing multilayered and coloured cape, and interesting use of climbing rope. 

 

Simon Porte Jacquemus often longs for his Mediterranean roots and this SS17 Jacquemus collection was a firm reminder of that. The silhouettes, which he sent down the runway for S/S 2017, were precisely cut to re-interpret the bolero costume, paneled and pleated to wild angles, without losing a classical touch in every single inch of proportion.